Wednesday, November 2, 2011

turquoise toilet seats & peyote dreams: art tours part 2





ever seen 30 drawers filled with plastic body parts?  ears in one, eyeballs in another… various limbs in the bottom drawer, which belong to the arm-less mannequin, who is also wearing a british flag bikini, construction helmet and swim goggles, while holding a vanity mirror, covered in fake blood? 

nope, not a halloween decoration…

naked cockroach barbie finally met her match.  i knew it was going to happen, but i couldn’t tell you guys last week or it would ruin the fun of it.  the art tours closing party at bobby furst’s house blew everything else out of the water in terms of sheer wackiness and full-on stimulation.

but the whole weekend was another whirlwind of art, and climbing, and epic… always epic… desert sky.


on saturday, after 4 early morning hours of wedging my body in rock cracks out in the middle of the park (turns out i like rock faces better than cracks… but im learning… and they’re growing on me), it was time to hit the art tours again.

first stop:  mike smiley.  he and his wife are good friends of steve & ruth, and i originally met them two years ago.  mike is a sculptor, working primarily out of alabaster, copper and lots of steel, and he also makes beautiful jewelry.  he is heavily inspired and influenced by the desert landscape and animals, and his pieces are almost mystical and spirited in the way they portray the subject matter.  they are scattered and animated across his sloping property, which overlooks joshua tree and the mountains to the north.  he and his wife are such exuberant and friendly people, and despite the constant flood of visitors he had, he insisted i sit down and chat for a bit on their porch, while he finished off a yummy-looking pb & j.  (yes, when people eat peanut butter in my presence, i always notice).  a couple times i commented or complimented him on some aspect of his work, and he immediately burst out, “bah!  forget about me!  you really just need to learn everything from steve, there’s truly no one better.”  i, of course, adore steve and thus wouldn’t argue, but mike’s work is wonderful in its own unique way.  it amazes me how astoundingly supportive of each other all the artists out here are (last weekend many people came to steve’s directly from mike’s, claiming he’d sent them to us, do not pass go, do not collect $200).  




my next stop was at karine swenson’s.  karine is another friend i met through lily, who is such a wonderful person, but also an extremely talented and dedicated visual artist out here.  her ability to paint, in general, is amazing… but what’s most impressive is the variety of styles in which she succeeds.  she has done stunning representational work, inspired by the desert landscape and many animals (i fell in love with a coyote piece she did), but also a whole host of abstract work, exploring very organic compositions with form and color, as well as geometric ones (she did a mesmerizing series of paintings called “circle of quiet”, exploring the power and symbolisms of the circle).  not to mention, she also has established herself as a portrait painter, having a longstanding love for drawing and painting the human figure.  her work is definitely worth checking out!





janet braley.  what an experience.  janet is another ceramic artist that ruth insisted i visit, and one whose work steve and ruth own a ton of (ruth used to be a potter, but began commissioning pieces from janet after she got too heavily involved in land politics, and especially after she lost much of her own work in an earthquake).  janet’s place was way out in 29 palms, where the marine base is, down a dirt road where the only horizon is dirt road (and some mountains in the distance).  her studio and compound where she displays her work was absolutely extraordinary, ecclectic, and full of sweat and soul. exhibited amidst all the ceramics were also hand-sewn aprons, bags, nightgowns, homemade chutney, cutting boards…. the list goes on.  i’ll let the pictures speak for themselves, but it was exactly what is so inspiring and powerful about these studio tours.  walking into the intimacy of someone’s home and space allows you windows into all aspects of who they are, their eccentricities, the way they see the world.  the artists, like janet, that i have most treasured visiting are those for whom their house and surroundings are as fascinating and inspiring as the work itself.  it’s impossible to define where one ends and the art begins… it’s such uninhibited and unfiltered channeling of one person’s self.









the interlude came on sunday, when i spent all daylight hours delivering smoky steak tips and mason jars of tequila.   welcome to my second (third) life in joshua tree, which i haven’t told you all about yet.  it doesn’t really count anyway.  but seeing as i have a secret addiction to working in restaurants, and on top of it, a gal’s gotta afford car insurance and climbing salve, i picked up a shift a week at a place down the road (actually literally down the canyon i live on).

the place is called pappy & harriet’s pioneertown palace.

i could end right there and you might be able to form a pretty good picture…. think coyote ugly slash annie oakley in the high-desert.  but a quick history is worth telling, because the place has become so legendary that people regularly are coming from all over to visit. 

in 1946, a bunch of hollywood investors (including roy rogers, gene autry and russell hayden) created pioneertown, essentially a real live-in movie set, where the outskirts were saloons, jails and stables of an 1870’s frontier town, and the insides of pioneertown were motels and bowling alleys for the public.  in the 40’s and 50’s, tons of TV shows and over 50 films were shot there.

in 1972, harriet’s parents bought one of the saloons and opened “the cantina” which became a popular hell’s angels bar.  in ’82, harriet and her husband pappy bought it, and turned it into a local favorite, with tex-mex and live music, still drawing the bikers, but also people from every walk of life.  it’s now owned by two women, linda and robyn, who came out here from NYC working on a film and fell in love with the place (it’s also currently for sale, but only to the right people).  it has become a favorite indie rock joint, with musicians from robert plant to vampire weekend regularly coming through (live music every night we’re open).  but still, the best part is the variety of people and ages that come together to eat barbeque under the desert sky, and get to experience a piece of the history. 

i really miss working at a place where i get to truly know and bond with the customers (caseus, i love you), and a place where you can advocate and support local food – but this experience is something entirely different for me.  the space is filled with more characters than i have ever seen (and probably will ever see) in my life (there’s absolutely no describing that would do justice), the staff has perhaps more fun than the customers, and it’s so insanely busy that you literally just have to laugh (and throw a smile – or budweiser - every now and then towards the men in harley jumpsuits).  if you’re ever anywhere near southern california, i suggest you HEAVILY consider putting pappy’s on your list of WFAOTF (worth forgoing all other things for).
(sorry for the crappy lit cellphone pics here)





from pappy’s i made my way to bobby fursts closing party for the art tours.  he had opened his home and massive open-air compound to anyone who wanted to come (it was broadcast all over the radio), and boy did they come.  well, for a small town at least.  cars were parked for a mile along his sandy dirt road, everyone eager to have an excuse to get to visit his house.  i truly doubt whether there’s any artist in the world who obsessively collects more bizarre objects and “junk” with more fanatical and imaginative organization.  i’ve visited before, but every time, it is beyond overwhelming… to say the VERY least.  think tim burton meets alice in wonderland meets every vintage store and collector’s shop you’ve ever seen.  and then picture a tiny man in black leggings, a bright yellow captain’s jacket with coat tails, and a giant black top hat running around waving his arms like an animated cartoon character.  definitely check out his website.

bands were playing in opened-up quonset huts, fires were burning in outdoor woodstoves, diane best’s incredible films were playing on an entire wall, and the insanity of outfits in attendance made the party-goers eerily indistinguishable from the horde of objects and displays flooding one’s line of sight at any given moment.  there were people from age 12 to age 80, all ecstatic to be together.  i ran into friends i know from climbing, co-workers from pappy’s, a host of other artists, friends i’ve just met through friends in town, and locals who commissioned steve’s work from us last weekend.  the man who wrote the guide book to yosemite was standing next to me (in only a tiny kilt) for a good 20 minutes.

still trying to believe it wasn’t a dream.

still trying to believe that 6 months ago i was holding a laser pointer at a podium, defending a dissertation to a room full of scientists and doctors.

mid-conversation with a friend nathan, we picked up a book on the table entitled, “rock crystals and peyote dreams”.  we were commenting what a great title that was, and how appropriate it felt for the moment, when i noticed the author was a man named peter furst.  furst.  turns out it is bobby’s father, who was a documentary filmmaker and is a professor emeritus of anthropology and latin american studies at NYU and UPenn, famous for his work on the huichol indians, and sacred plants, incuding the peyote cactus.  bobby has lived a pretty wild life, and has always been dedicated to creating, by self-sustained labor, his art without necessarily knowing, or worrying, how it will support him.  i was chatting with him towards the end of the night (he held my hand for 2/3 of the time we were talking), and he was commenting how he takes it day-by-day.  one project turns into another, and he just can’t stop, just keeps going.  one day he’s not sure how he’s going to make it, financially, through another month, but pursuing the vision is most important and he trusts it’ll all fall into place.  “next!” he eagerly exclaims, waving his hands wildly at the big wooden beams behind our heads, “what i’m going to do is put in individual theater seating, but with the seats perfectly staggered, so everyone here can have a perfect view of the band!!”




i can’t remember the last time i talked to someone who was unsure how they’d make it through the next month, but whose biggest concern and current project involved building theater seating for their house-guests.  driving home, under a sliver of a moon, it was one of those moments where the experience of being here felt so overwhelming, i didn’t know what to do with myself.  i am so happy.  the amount of stimulation my brain is receiving, constantly, while out here, is going to be incredibly hard to give up.  maybe, by some miracle, i will somehow get sick of it.  or else i'll just have to find a way to get that wherever i am…


  
either way, something in this landscape is unrelenting in delivering the closest thing to spirituality i have ever experienced thus far in my life…


No comments:

Post a Comment